Climbing at Tavolara

CLIMBING AT TAVOLARA

Tavolara is also a paradise for those with climbing in their DNA. The large valley called ‘pratone’ is cradled by two limestone peaks called Punta Cannone (564 meters) and Punta di Lucca (541 meters), it is precisely the latter that gives us an excellent rock in which the modern route devised is ‘sculpted’. in the early 2000s by Enzo Lecis, protagonist of the history of climbing in Sardinia. The route is a multi-pitch (7 in total) that with a difference in height of 215 meters ends on the ridges of Tavolara. The street bears the name ‘Affora Sa Nato’, in clear reference to the presence of the NATO base which controls half of the entire island.

Approach

From the Spalmatore di Terra beach, go up the small cliff to the east and walk along a wide path that at a certain point (past a scree and reached the lime kilns) intersects a small track. This is the most direct path that leads to the start of the route; this goes up the slopes of the island (when you meet a crossroads, keep to the right while continuing to climb) overcoming the first rocky ledge with a stony ground and a ‘staircase’ e fuste ‘(juniper staircase). At the end of the ladder, go up for a few meters in altitude, meeting the other path that comes from Punta della Mandria. We keep to the left (north-east direction) and in 20 minutes we reach the start.

Itinerary

The itinerary was excellently described by Maurizio Oviglia on Planet Mountain. Here is his description of the Way:

Along the ascent path to Punta Cannone, when it touches the rocks of the W face of Punta Lucca for the first time, do not attack on a slab with a visible bolt but about twenty meters upstream, right in correspondence with the rounded spur, before the path makes a short hairpin bend. The first bolt is about ten meters from the ground, hardly visible. Just below there is a small juniper with an hourglass cord.

Climb on the spur for beautiful rock for 25 meters (bolts and hourglasses), then a short traverse to the left leads to the S1, 30m (5c). Climb on a vertical slab, then a decided traverse to the left, then straight again towards a small tree on the right, exiting on a ledge, S2, 30m (6a +). For a gap in the trees pass a wall of beautiful rock and then a crack up to a new ledge, S3, 30m (6a). On the right, climb a beautiful dihedral, S4, 30m (6b). On the left, in a crack, an old and rudimentary nut is visible, probably by Bodo Habel. To the right easily up to the base of a beautiful slab. Overcome it by exiting the jump on a pulpit, S5, 30m (6a).

Enter the easy basin and go to the right on the NW ridge, stopping where the ridge straightens, S6, 30m (4c). Climb on the edge of a nice crack to the top, S7, 35m (short 6a step).